Rooms and Board

Rooms and Board

One of the pleasures of traveling through France was discovering the many different kinds of places we could call home, even if only for a night or two. The French have a wonderful tradition of welcoming travelers, and a whole vocabulary of accommodations goes with it.

At the simplest end were the gîtes d’étape—places especially suited to walkers and pilgrims. Some were quite basic, with dormitory-style rooms, shared bathrooms, and perhaps a communal kitchen. You might find yourself sharing a room with strangers who had traveled the same dusty roads, comparing where you had walked that day and where you hoped to go tomorrow. Tom and I could always share a private room, but we also shared a room with other walkers on occasion. They weren’t fancy, but they served an important purpose: a comfortable bed, a place to wash, a meal, and a chance to rest before setting out again.

Then there were the chambres d’hôtes, which were something quite different. These were rooms in someone’s home, often in beautiful old houses or country properties, where the owners welcomed guests personally. Breakfast was usually part of the experience, and we always chose demi-pension when available because we were served breakfast and then served an exquisite dinner as well. The meals were always exquisite. There might be conversation around the table, advice about the next day’s journey, homemade food, or a glimpse into the life of the person who called that place home.

We also stayed in private homes and independent guest accommodations, each with its own personality. Some felt more like a small bed and breakfast, while others made us feel like we had been invited into someone’s personal world. There was no single formula. Every place had its own character, comforts, and story.

In France, it’s worth understanding the distinction between a gîte and a chambre d’hôtes. A gîte is generally an independent furnished place that you rent and make your own for the stay. A chambre d’hôtes is a room in the owner’s home, where the host is part of the experience. In everyday travel, though, we came to appreciate the whole range—from simple shared lodging to lovely homes where we were welcomed as personal guests.

Looking back, I realize that these places were an important part of the journey. We weren’t simply checking into hotels and moving on. Night after night, we were introduced to a different side of France. Sometimes the accommodation was modest, sometimes beautiful, and sometimes the most special part was the person who opened the door.

And that may be one of the nicest things about traveling through France: you never quite know who you will meet, or which place will stay with you long after you have left.

You are loved…