Croatia

After our days in Budapest, we travelled south through rolling hills and open countryside, until the rooftops of Zagreb came into view — red-tiled and sunlit, framed by the spires of the cathedral.

Croatia’s capital immediately greeted us with an energy that felt both modern and timeless. We joined a guided tour that wove through the heart of the city — from Ban Jelačić Square, bustling with blue trams ( blue, the official color of Zabreb) and café chatter, to the Upper Town where cobblestone streets climbed toward St. Mark’s Church and its brilliant tiled roof. Every corner seemed alive with pride and tradition. Our guide spoke with affection about the country’s long history and its recent resurgence, and it was easy to feel the strength of the Croatian spirit everywhere we went.

By day, Zagreb was a celebration of culture. Street musicians filled the air with folk tunes, markets brimmed with fresh produce, flower markets, and handmade crafts. The locals gathered in open squares dressed in traditional clothing for ceremonies and cultural events. You could feel the joy of a nation honoring its heritage — not as a performance for visitors, but as a living, breathing expression of who they are.

At night, the city transformed into something even more magical. The evening air was filled with the sounds of families filling the plazas, laughing and talking well past midnight. Cafés illuminated the streets, and the aromas of roasted chestnuts and grilled meats wafted through the breeze. A sense of belonging permeated the atmosphere, as if everyone in Zagreb— from children chasing balloons to grandparents sharing a glass of wine—was part of one large, extended gathering.

By the time we departed, it felt as though Zagreb had shared more than its sights and sounds — it had shared its heart. We left with memories of laughter echoing through the old stone streets, the warmth of people proud of their culture, and the gentle hum of a city alive both day and night.

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Tom and Nancy Stoeckel

6 thoughts on “Croatia”

  1. Dearest Tom and Nancy, Your words and descriptions of your travels are absolutely breathtaking! What a beautiful adventure you are on. Thank you so much for sharing. Susan and I are living vicariously with each of your blog posts. You have such a gift for writing. It’s so captivating! After 15 days working in the Camino office, Susan and I are now on our way to Milan via Madrid. Then will be in the little village of Varsi near Parma for a month. You have such a gift for writing. It’s so captivating! After 15 days working in the Camino office, Susan and I are now on our way to Milan via Madrid. Then will be in the little village of for a month. Over two week period, Susan and Ialone met pilgrims from over 80 countries. We processed about 75 a day. Caminos in the fall are becoming nearly as impacted as those in the spring and Summer. Last week, alone met pilgrims from over 80 countries. We processed about 75 a day Camino in the fall are becoming almost as nearly impact it as those in the spring and summer. Last week, we hit our record of almost 4000 per day. However, the smiles of each peregrino that pass through the door and up to the counter fill our hearts with joy and energy. Last night, I had the honor of a lifetime. Two of the permanent employees in the Camino office are part of the group that schedules the pulling of the rope for the Botafumeiro. Last night I was able to participate. It was a surreal experience as I thought about how many hundreds of thousands of pilgrims over the hundreds of years that borne witness to this. We plan to come back and volunteer next spring or summer before another Camino so hopefully I’ll have another opportunity to do it again. I wish you and Tom safe travels in the coming weeks. If you are anywhere near Parma or Bologna, let me know and we can meet you. All our love! Susan and I may be your biggest fans, but I’m sure you have dozens of others that say the same!

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      1. We are at the airport in Santiago de Compostela. We have the flight in Madrid and then catch a connecting flight to Milan later this afternoon

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