Nasbinals and Saint Chely-D’Aubrac

Instead of a rest day, we opted for a seven-mile walk, knowing we would arrive early enough to catch up on some laundry, book our next rooms in advance, and then leisurely explore the lovely village of Nasbinals. Our friend Axel, who was also walking through this town, invited us to join him and another pilgrim, Faustina, for lunch. Faustina was one of the pilgrims who had an injury, and I checked on her regularly to monitor her improvement. We were excited to see she was doing better and to have the opportunity to enjoy a leisurely lunch with a glass of wine, a rare treat while walking, which added such a delightful moment to our day. The combination of the sound of our laughter, the good food, and the ambiance of this old restaurant created a memorable experience.

Nasbinals, a picturesque village that beckons pilgrims and local tourists, captivated us with its charm. We went into the cathedral and museum, immersing ourselves in the area’s rich history. Our stay at the French Hotel was a highlight, with its convenient location and breakfast that included a whole baguette each. The French, renowned for their culinary prowess, make the best bread and cheese, so this was a delightful treat. I prepared a lunch with one of our loaves, ensuring we were well-prepared for the day ahead.

Although Axel would now be a day ahead of us, we were thrilled at the prospect of our paths crossing again. This is the beauty of the Camino, where friendships are formed and rekindled, and the journey is as much about the people we meet as the places we visit. We eagerly looked forward to when our paths would converge once more.

Our walk into St. Chely was lovely. The trail was challenging and stunning. We walked into the old town, and I was awestruck by its charm. We saw some pilgrims sitting out and having refreshments under a covered patio. We longed to join them but decided to check into our place and get into dry clothes. Despite the weather reports, it rained all day. We had a little difficulty finding our place, and even GPS seemed to lead us in circles. We asked at the bar-cafe and got some directions. I must admit that I was somewhat disappointed when I got the directions to our place, seeing that it was slightly out of town. It was raining, and I was eager to be home and dry.

Once we arrived, I realized I would have walked miles to stay in this place. It was the home of Madame Azam and her family. We were her only guests that evening; she treated us like royalty. We arrived at her beautiful front door dripping wet, and she welcomed us with open arms. She hung our damp gear up, stuffed our shoes with newspaper, and set them next to the furnace. After showing us to our room with freshly ironed sheets and pillowcases, she informed us that dinner would be served at 7:00 PM.

As we entered her dining room, a bottle of wine, a loaf of bread, a charcuterie platter, candles, and a small fire crackling awaited us. She served us homemade vegetable soup, fresh salad, and the infamous Aubrac beef with a sweet potato puree—all fresh from her farm. We ate everything she gave us.

It was hard to leave in the morning. We had an excellent breakfast and dry clothes, so we knew our departure was inevitable.

We were filled with anticipation for the day’s walk, eager to discover what lay ahead. This sense of excitement for each new day is always the best way to start the day, rain or shine.

You are loved.

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