A funny thing happened on the way to Finieyrols: we ended up in Malbouzon. The French Chemin’s infrastructure differs slightly from that of its Spanish counterpart by offering numerous alternative routes. We chose a different route when we could not find accommodations along the designated path. Our guidebooks list many of these routes, which walkers frequently use when accommodations are scarce. Sometimes, these detours lead to the most wonderful discoveries. Such was the case in Malbouzon.
Once we arrived, we stayed at the only Gite in town, Chez Annies. What a delight that was!
There was no signage indicating where it was, except for what was written on the wall as we entered town. I decided to ask at the only café in sight, and to my delight, I spotted our friend Axel enjoying a cup of coffee. He was sitting in the same place where I found the sign for Chez Annie’s! We had finally arrived.
We were greeted by Remy, Annie’s son, who directed us where to place our shoes and belongings. He appeared intense, dressed in a white coat with wild black hair, and barked out commands in French about where we should put our things. For some reason, I liked him immediately and watched as he served everyone who came through and settled all the guests. I realized that what I had interpreted as intensity was likely fatigue; they had a full house, and he was managing it all. I began to appreciate how hard these small gîtes work for their livelihood. Remy mentioned that they work continuously, seven days a week, from March to November, which supports them throughout the year. During the slow months, they focus on maintaining the property and preparing for the next season. The coffee shop stays open for local townspeople, but they earn most of their income during the busy months.
As I continued to observe Remy throughout the evening, I noticed a transformation. He took on the role of chef, and magic unfolded when he entered the kitchen. I enjoyed the best meal I had in while in France: soup and salad, Aubrac beef bourguignon, Aligot, and a fresh plum tart. The highlight was the look of joy on his face! I complimented him on the fantastic dinner, and he was genuinely pleased.
As I reflect on this experience, I recognize that there is still much more to learn. My interactions with Remy have deepened my appreciation for the hard work and dedication that goes into running a small gite. This is part of the intimate connection that walking brings, and I love the rich tapestry of local cultures and I am excited to experience it in this way.
You are loved.
Tom and Nancy’s Journeys 