Many people asked us why we had chosen this route for our walk this year. It would not be as familiar as our walks in Spain, nor would it be an easy trail. The language would be challenging.
And, while I had for the longest time daydreamed about another long walk traversing the countryside of Spain, the walk from Le Puy-en-Velay in south-central France would captivate my thoughts this year, and I found I could think of no other walk to embark on. I felt it calling my heart and so, along with the sheer beauty of this route with its breathtaking landscapes and charming villages, it would ultimately become the starting point of our pilgrimage.
Though it would be an arduous hike, and the language and accommodations would be a little more challenging than we were used to, we embraced the challenge. This route would take us through the volcanic landscapes of the Velay, the wild Aubrac plateau, fairytale villages like Conques, and so much more. We had a few things to learn about walking in the French countryside, such as the unique flora and fauna, the local customs, and the history of the regions we passed through. But we were committed to making this pilgrimage before our feet hit the ground. Our reflections on the journey, the moments of awe, and the challenges we overcame were as much a part of the pilgrimage as the physical walk itself. We did not doubt that we were exactly where we should be.
Le Puy is the capital of the Haute-Loire region of the Auvergne-Rhone-Alpes region of south-central France. It is in the Auvergne region in the Massif Central and about two miles from the Loire River. Like Spain, these areas are divided into regions. We would begin our walk in the Auvergne region and finish in the Occitane region. It was to be a breathtaking walk.
We booked a little apartment near the chapel Saint-Michel d Aiguilhe, built on a volcanic plug. Little did we know what a beautiful location we had chosen. It’s not the most accessible, but it was worth the effort. We meandered through the town, caught up on some business, washed our clothes, and tried the local cuisine. The unique flavors of the regional dishes, such as Pain de Viande or meatloaf, made a lasting impression on us. This dish, a comforting combination of beef, pork, spinach, and carrots with a baguette and some wine, was a perfect welcome to the region. Our host called it a poor man’s meal, and we would come to try many other dishes, but this will always be one of my favorites.
Along with the Chapel Saint-Michel, another notable monument in Le Puy that sits on the Corneille rocky peak is the statue of Our Lady of Le Puy-en-Velay. She is 128 feet tall and weighs 835 tons. The statue was made of iron from 213 cannons presented by General Pelissier, the victor of the Crimean War, and was inaugurated in 1860 in front of 120,000 pilgrims.
We would begin our journey at the Puy-en-Velay Cathedral, a place of peace and reflection. We are excited and eager.
God be with us. You are loved.
Tom and Nancy’s Journeys 